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A thicket of skyscrapers hemmed in by towering peaks and lit up with more neon than Las Vegas, Hong Kong is not a city that does things by halves. Determinedly modern, the city still hasn't lost sight of its roots, with junks chugging along Victoria Harbour and traditional temples peeping out between skyscrapers. It's a whirlwind of a place that can just be done within 24 hours but deserves a whole lot more.